Guinea Pig Digestion

Guinea pigs have a particular digestive system that can seem a little gross to us humans. They produce two types of fecal matter – hard and soft pellets. You are probably quite familiar with their hard pellets as this is the fecal matter that you must clean up regularly from their cages.

The soft pellets are less often seen. This is because guinea pigs consume this fecal matter – known as cecal pellets – due to its nutritional value. These pellets offer guinea pigs a crucial source of vitamin B. A healthy guinea pig will have both forms of bowel movement.

Unfortunately, there is no normal pattern of pooping across all guinea pigs, so you must look for other symptoms.

Symptoms of Constipation in Guinea Pigs

• Deviation from guinea pig’s normal routine
• Guinea pig not pooping at all
• Straining to pass feces
• Changes in the appearance of the fecal matter
• Bloating
• Lethargy
• Eating less or more food than usual
• Lack or absence of feces in the guinea pig cage

What Causes Difficulty Passing Stool in Guinea Pigs?

Unlike dogs and cats, constipation is not the only reason that your guinea pig might be having a hard time pooping. Other conditions that may make your guinea pig constipated or cause them to stop pooping include:

• Dehydration
• Lack of nutrition
• Dental problems (if they can’t chew, they can’t eat)
• Abscesses in the mouth (see above)
• Incorrect Vitamin C levels (too low or too high)
• Scurvy (Vitamin C deficiency
• Urinary issues (causing pain so the guinea pig stops pooping)

Fecal impaction is also common in male guinea pigs that are between 2 and 3 years old. It’s thought that the increased size of their testicles, combined with the fat deposit in their scrotal sec, prevent feces from coming out of their rectum.

Treating Minor Constipation at Home

If your guinea pig hasn’t pooped for a while but is still eating their guinea pig food and drinking their fresh water like they normally do, try using supplemental food like Oxbow Critical Care alongside water to get your pet’s gut moving. Supplemental fluids work best because they offer more assistance than standard clean water will when you’re trying to get your guinea pig to poop.

Avoid feeding them too much when they haven’t used their bowels in a while. All you’ll be doing is adding to the feces inside them and making the problem worse.

When to Call a Vet

Although it is possible to deal with a constipated guinea pig constipation on your own, you probably won’t know what you need to do unless you are sure of the cause. There may be dietary issues to resolve, and you will need to know if the condition is chronic.

Another reason to visit the vet is to check for secondary concerns related to your guinea pig’s inability to poop. For example, constipation can also be a breeding ground for the eggs of certain species of fly. These eggs become maggots, and the maggots often bore into your guinea pig, killing them. This is, of course, very rare, but it’s still a concern that is worth investigating.

A constipated guinea pig is actually quite rare on the whole, but it is always safest to contact your vet if you notice any symptoms.

You will want to ensure that your vet is experienced with guinea pigs. The best way to do this is to search for one accredited by the Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians (AEMV). This will ensure your guinea pig will receive experienced care and attention.

Listen to what they suggest and follow their instructions carefully. It is also a good idea to have a follow-up examination once your guinea pig has recovered. You can confirm the cause, and, if necessary, consult about preventative treatment to discourage future constipation issues.

Why Constipation is Dangerous

When left long enough, constipation can be a life-threatening condition for any animal. Guinea pigs are small, so there isn’t a lot of room in their bowels for excess feces. After 24 hours, the situation becomes very serious for these little animals.

Severe cases can lead to death in guinea pigs, which is why it’s so important to get your veterinarian involved as soon as possible. It may sound strange or even funny, but what essentially happens is over the period of time the guinea pig is constipated, the guinea pig’s digestive tract and organs are being harmed. The term for a blocked gut is called Gastrointestinal stasis.

How Gastrointestinal Stasis Affects Your Guinea Pig’s Body

When the gut stops moving, is full of gas, or is blocked by anything, GI Stasis occurs. This serious condition requires attention from a vet immediately because the instructional variant of it can lead to death in 24 to 48 hours.

Symptoms of GI Stasis are almost the exact same as constipation. A minor bout of constipation, however, is much easier to deal with. If your guinea pig is sitting in a hunched position or pressing their stomach against the floor, they are trying to alleviate their pain. A guinea pig’s gut is very sensitive and may be affected by stress, pain, dehydration, lack of exercise, or lack of dietary fiber.

Non-obstructive GI Stasis Symptoms

• Reduction in guinea pig’s fecal size
• Reduction in pooping
• Depression
• Abdominal pain
• Dehydration
• Craving fiber
• Appears over the course of several days

Obstructive GI Stasis Symptoms

• Sudden onset over one to two days
• Guinea pig stops pooping entirely
• Signs of shock
• Depression
• Abdominal pain
• Severe dehydration
• Death in 24 to 48 hours

What to Do if you Suspect GI Stasis

• Get your guinea pig to a veterinarian straight away.
• Allow your vet to stimulate gastric emptying and treat your guinea pig
• Rehydrate your guinea pig
• Follow your veterinarian’s plan to restore their appetite and correct their electrolyte imbalances
• Treat any underlying disorders that may have caused the issue.

Resolving Impaction

There are many potential causes of constipation in guinea pigs. Often it is caused by diet, but elderly, pregnant, and obese guinea pigs can also struggle to reach their anal openings in order to consume their cecal matter. This would then result in a blockage that prevents both hard and soft pellets from leaving their body.

If this is the case, you may need to help your guinea pig manually. This process is called digital evacuation, and is a true testament of your devotion to your pets! It involves you carefully easing out the blockage yourself, and requires a few steps when done properly.

Digital Evacuation for Guinea Pigs

1. Wash your hands with antibacterial soap and put on gloves. This is essential for ensuring the process is hygienic as guinea pigs can pass infection on to humans. You will also want to cover your workstation with paper towels.
2. Check for the blockage. Impaction is usually quite visible and should be able to be seen when you carefully reveal the anus for inspection. It will appear as a brown mass blocking the exit and may cause the anus to protrude.
3. Use lubricant. Petroleum jelly or mineral oil can be used to encourage the fecal matter to exit comfortably. The stool can also be softened using water by submersing your guinea pig’s bottom half.
4. Very gently squeeze to encourage the blockage out. Don’t think of your guinea pig as a tube of toothpaste, but instead ease it out using alternating pressure on either side of the anus. Stop if you suspect you may be hurting your pet. Do not use any tools and do not insert anything into the anus.

Depending on the cause of the impaction, you may need to repeat this treatment. If the cause was temporary, you only need to repeat as long as the problem persists, but some chronic conditions may mean you need to create a regular digital evacuation schedule for your guinea pig.

If you are uncomfortable performing digital evacuation, you can bring them to your veterinarian for treatment. They will be more than happy to help you. Although, it is worth noting that if your guinea pig is suffering from a chronic issue, a weekly visit to the vet for treatment may start to add up financially.

How to Prevent Constipation in Guinea Pigs

Limit Vitamin C

Vitamins might sound like an excellent addition to include in your guinea pig’s diet. But, when you combine vegetables or vegetable matter with added vitamin C and feed too much of it to your pet, you can cause bowel issues. Be sure to read the analysis of the food you’re feeding your pet to check the levels of Vitamin C.

Guinea pigs only need 10 to 50 mg of Vitamin C each day, depending on the guinea pigs’ age, their condition, and their lifestyle. A guinea pig who is deficient in Vitamin C will need up to 50 mg a day, while other guinea pigs are on the lower end between 10 and 30 mg.

Probiotics

Consider the use of probiotics, which are microorganisms that balance the bacteria in the gut. Ensure you use probiotics designed for guinea pigs, and consult their usage with your vet before you start giving your guinea pig any probiotic supplements.

It will take a week or two for the benefits of the probiotics to show themselves. Don’t be alarmed if your guinea pig has a couple of episodes of diarrhea in the first few days. However, if they seem to be getting dehydrated or lethargic, stop the probiotics and take them to your veterinarian.

Water Bottles

Encourage water consumption using a water bottle, or even a syringe. Water bowls aren’t great for small animals because all kinds of things end up soaking in there, which promotes bacteria. A water bottle doesn’t share this issue.

Make Improvements to Your Guinea Pig’s Diet

Most importantly, it is worth reviewing the diet of your pet no matter what the cause of constipation. An improved diet can both help to cure pooping issues and prevent future ones. Some dietary tips to help a constipated guinea pig include:

1. Make sure they’re getting the right amount of hay for guinea pigs
2. Do not force them to eat or offer them food from your hand. They will eat when they feel like they need to eat
3. Add some soft fruits and fresh vegetables to their diet, which will loosen their bowels. Remember not to add too much fruit as it has such a high sugar content. The best fruits have a low-sugar content.
4. Add greens to their diet. Not too much, though, because they can cause diarrhea
5. You can add a drop of olive oil to their treats, which should also help bowel movements

Good Fruits and Vegetables for Guinea Pigs

• Apples
• Broccoli
• Carrots
• Cucumber
• Mango
• Strawberries

Fruits and Vegetables to Avoid

• Avocado
• Bananas
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Pears
• Raw beans

You may also like our article on what guinea pigs eat.

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Step 1: Check That You Really Need to Bathe Your Hamster

Bathing hamsters is a last resort so the first step is to think about why you want to give your furry friend a bath. Most of the time, this is down to unpleasant odors. But hamster odors are never caused by a lack of a bath! Here are the main reasons why your hamster is probably smelling.

The Hamster’s Cage Needs Cleaning

Increase the frequency of cleaning your hamster’s cage by setting up a hamster cage cleaning schedule. Daily cleaning should be: removing wet bedding and replacing it with fresh bedding and removing poop and wet sawdust/paper from the toilet area. Weekly cleaning should be: completely changing the bedding, washing the food dish and water bottle with plain water, cleaning all of the toys with mild soapy water (using a pet safe detergent) and rinsing thoroughly. If you are nor sure what toys to get for your hammy, there are plenty of ideas here. There’s loads more information on how to clean a cage in How to Clean a Hamster Cage. A clean cage does not smell but an older hamster’s cage will get smelly more quickly than a baby hamster’s . If you have more than one hamster in the cage it will need to be cleaned more frequently and you will need to do some spot cleaning. It’s a good idea, therefore, to choose a cage that is easy to clean and there’s a great selection in The Best Hamster Cages in 2022.

The Hamster is Sick

Hamsters can suffer from a number of conditions that can make them have a stronger odor. Wet tail is a common condition that affects Syrian hamsters the most. The intestines become inflamed and they develop diarrhea. You will notice wet areas on their fur around their tail. Want to know about this nasty condition? Check out What is wet tail in hamsters? Hamsters can also develop fungal infections and skin conditions. Some of these can be related to issues with their immune system (which can be stress-related) or they could have a parasitic problem such as a mite or flea infestation. These need to be checked out by your vet and there is detailed advice in How to Get Rid of Fleas on Hamsters

The Hamster is in Heat

A female hamster will come into heat around every four days. This is when she is receptive to a male and will be willing to mate. In order to attract a mate, a female hamster’s scent glands will give off a particular odor at these times that is potent and musky. This is a perfectly normal biological process and giving your hamster a bath will not help at all.

We have plenty more hamster hygiene tips in Hamster Supplies Checklist!

Step 2: Try Sand Bathing Instead

Could you give a hamster a bath in sand instead? This would be preferable to immersing in water. Most dirt can be rubbed off by the friction caused when your hamster tumbles around in the sand. In the wild, this is how a hamster would fulfil their grooming needs and remove dirt and parasites. It also removes oils from their coat and can help with skin problems. Before you rush in and bathe your hamster in a water bath, try a sand bath instead.

You must use the correct type of sand for this. It cannot be a dust bath made from dirt that you have collected from your yard or garden. That type of dirt could contain pathogens and is very fine so it could be breathed in and cause respiratory problems. Instead you need special hamster sand or chinchilla sand (this is widely available in pet stores) and place it in a container that is large enough for your hamster to roll around in. It is not advisable to leave it in your hamster’s cage all the time as they will probably use it as their toilet!

After a lovely sand bath, your hammy will shake off the excess sand or you could wipe it off for them with a soft brush. Most hamsters love sand baths – they are a real treat for them and a natural way for bathing your hamster. We have plenty more fun facts about hamsters for you in 8 Fun Facts About Hamsters.

Step 3: When You Need to Bathe a Hamster in Water

Sometimes hamsters can get toxic substances on their fur. This can happen if they escape from their cage and get into places that should not get into! A toxic chemical may not cause any harm on their fur but it could soon become a problem when your hamster starts to groom themselves. They will ingest the toxic substance which could cause burning in their mouth or more serious problems if ingested. Some substances dissolve in oil so you may have success trying to remove the substance using a soft cloth to gently rub the area with some coconut oil. If the substance is water soluble, this is one of the rare occasions when you may need to bathe a hamster.

Sticky substances are also a problem if your hamster could choke on it if they tried to bite it off. Chewing gum is a typical example and is more of a problem for a long haired hamster. If it is swallowed, it could cause a bowel obstruction. Whilst chewing gum is best cut out, some other sticky substances could be removed by bathing if a lot of the coat is contaminated.

Step 4: Alternatives to Bathing

There are plenty of ways to keep your hamster clean that do not involve a lot of water. Here are the main ones that hamster experts suggest:

• Spot cleaning: In a warm room, use some pet wipes or a wet cloth (with only a little water on it) and gently clean the area of your hamster’s coat that is dirty. You can add some mild pet shampoo to the water if you need to. Gently wipe your pet without pressing too hard – hamsters are very delicate creatures and you could injure them. Rub your hamster dry with a soft towel by stroking in the direction of fur growth before putting them back into their cage. Keep the cage in a warm area for a few hours to make sure the hamster does not get a chill.
• Cutting out the dirt: Sticky substances can be cut out of long fur using blunt-nosed scissors. It is easier to do this on longer fur – it may not be possible on a short-haired hamster. You need to be very cautious as you carefully trim away the contamination. Take special care near the hamster’s head and ears.
• Brushing the coat: Another option is to gently brush off the dirt with an unused toothbrush. Try to brush in the direction of the fur if you can. You may need to use a slightly wet toothbrush to remove some substances but always dry you hamster thoroughly with a hand towel after.

Step 5: Bathing Your Hamster in Water

Can you give a hamster a bath? Only if there is no alternative to immersion in water. Start by moving your hamster to a warm room. Put about half an inch of lukewarm water into a bowl. Place your hamster into the palm of your hand and carefully lower them into the water. Use the other hand to gently clean away the dirt from the hamster’s fur- you can use some unscented pet shampoo if you really need to but this must be thoroughly rinsed off and it must be kept away from the face. The shampoo left on the fur causes irritation possibly leading to dry skin.

Use a soft, dry towel to completely dry your hamster by patting them gently or rubbing in the direction of the hamster’s fur. Keep the cage in a warm place for several hours and perhaps give them a special treat chosen from The Best Hamster Treats in 2022.

Sources:

1. Do Hamsters Smell? (And How To Stop Yours From Stinking!), Hamsters 101

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We love hamsters and have owned many ourselves so here we share our experiences with you together with extensive research and advice from hamster experts!

Do Hamsters Like Being Held?

Hamster owners often worry about this question especially if they have never owned a hamster before. The overall answer is yes, they do! However, this does not mean that you can just reach right into the cage and grab your hamster and expect it to go well. It won’t! You have to lead up to it correctly and take the time to make your hammy feel comfortable and confident with human contact.

Once you earn your hamster’s trust you will soon find that they enjoy your company and being held by you.

What You Need to Know Before Holding a Hamster

If you want your hamster petting experience to go well, you need the right hamster in the right environment at the right time. Then you need the correct technique. We’ve broken down this information to explain what we mean.

Which Hamsters Like to be Held?

The most common types of pet hamsters are Syrian hamsters and Dwarf (Campbell or Roborovski) hamsters. Syrian hamsters are solitary animals so you will only have one in the cage. They are intelligent creatures and many can be welcoming towards human interaction. Because they live on their own, their human family are their only company. They are also more robust hamsters as they are larger and move relatively slowly. But be warned, this is still quite fast. If holding your hamster is a priority for you, these would be your best choice of pet.

As their name suggests, Dwarf hamsters are very small! They are a delicate and sensitive creature and can very easily get hurt. They like to live in groups and the sad truth is that they would prefer to spend time with other hamsters than with you. They also move very fast which makes them more challenging to hold. Having said that, with the correct training and a lot of patience, it is possible to hold a Dwarf hamster successfully too.

When is the Best Time to Hold a Hamster?

Hamsters are not really nocturnal animals. They are most active at dawn and dusk which makes them crepuscular. This is the best time to try and interact with them. Never disturb a hamster when they are sleeping. Remember that they are prey animals and in their half-asleep state they will assume that you have come to attack them. This can result in a sharp bite. Whilst a hamster is unlikely to be able to inflict a serious injury, they can give you a nasty nip which is particularly damaging and painful for children’s small fingers. There is a lot more advice on how to stop your hamster from biting in our article that you can find here.

Do not try to handle your hamster straight away when you first bring your hamster home. It’s understandable that pet owners want to greet their new pet but this is a very stressful time for your new furry friend. Let your hamster explore their new environment first and get used to the smells and noises of their new house. It will only take a few days for your new hamster to become more confident.

Creating a Calm Hamster Environment

Your pet hamster will enjoy (or at least tolerate) being handled more readily if their environment is calm and suitable. Both when they are being handled and the rest of the time. The first thing you need to do to prevent a hamster from experiencing stress is provide them with a suitable cage. We have provided lots of advice on how to choose your hamster’s cage here.

The cage must be large enough to keep your hamster comfortable, have a wheel for exercise and lots of other toys. Hamsters that are stuck in tiny cages are always stressed. The cage bars must be close enough to stop them from escaping. They also need appropriate food, toys and a water bottle.

When handling your hamster it is important that both you and they feel relaxed. Use a soft voice and do not make any sudden movements. Hamsters have fairly poor eyesight and get very startled by loud noises and quick movements. Keep other pets, especially boisterous dogs, out of the way.

Step-by-Step Guide to Petting Your Hamster

Before you try to hold your hamster, spend some time getting them used to your hands. Then they will not feel uncomfortable about being held and the petting process should run more smoothy. There’s plenty more information on how to tame a hamster here.

Step 1: Give your hands a hamster smell. A hamster likes things that smells like him so wash your hands with unscented soap and then rub your hands in the bedding in the cage. You need to wash your hands to get rid of pathogens that could harm your hamster and smells of food and chemicals. Do this every time you handle your little pet.

Step2: Try some hand feeding. This is a great way to spend quality time with your pet. Let your hamster take a treat from your hand. Most hamsters love chopped cucumber or a small bit of apple. Alternatively, check out our article on hamster treats. Do this at least once a day for a few days and then start to talk to them in a soothing voice as they take the treat.

Step3: Once your little pet is used to taking food from your hand, they are ready to be held. You do this by scooping them up in cupped hands. Make your movements slow and calm but confident. It may be best to place the cage on the floor the first time you do this just in case you accidentally drop your hamster.

Step 4: Now you can use the other hand to pet your hamster along their back starting at the hamster’s head. Look out for how your hamster reacts – signs that they are either enjoying the petting or that they are not happy. If hamsters love petting they often wiggle their ears and have a relaxed posture. They may even nestle into your hand.

Do Hamsters Like to be Petted?

Hamsters do quite like us humans and even though they are a small animal they can form bonds with their human parents. Hamster’s fur is soft and fine and is nice to pet but not all hamsters will enjoy it. It is very important that you use only delicate strokes and do not hold your hamster too firmly as they can easily get injured.

Hamsters are not known for showing affection but they will recognize the voice of their pet parents and respond to you. Even if you cannot properly pet your hamster or hold your hamster close you can still enjoy feeding and interacting with them

Top Tips on Holding and Petting Hamsters.

Here are our top tips on how to hold and pet your hamster.

• Handle one hamster only: If you have several hamsters, only handle one hamster at a time. This will allow you to focus on one hamster and ensure that they feel comfortable.
• Supervise young children: Young children should always be supervised when they are handling hamsters. This is for the safety of the hamster and the child.
• Look for signs of distress: If your hamster starts to squeak, claw, hiss or bite, put them back in their cage and go back to hand feeding for a while.
• Handle your hamster every day: You cannot ignore your hamster all week and then expect to pet them at weekends. You need to handle them everyday so that they will become accustomed to it.
• Start slowly: At first, hold your little pets for just a few seconds. Then gradually build up. Most pets respond to gradual training and a hamster is no different.

Why it is Important to Hold Your Hamster

Getting little pets used to being held is not just about you having fun. Small animals can find it very stressful to be examined by a vet if they are not used to it. If you handle your hammy regularly, they will not be so stressed if you have to take them to the vet.

It also gives you a chance to check them over for lumps and bumps or other signs of injury or disease. Finally, it means that you can easily move them to another location whilst you give their cage a good clean out.

Have fun holding your hamster!

Sources:

1. Hamster Care 101: How to Care For Your Hamster Pet MD
2. How to hold a hamster PDSA

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Stay calm and do not panic! We have been through this ourselves and have already researched all the tips, tricks, and strategies that work in real life. So, here are 10 things that you can do to find a lost hamster.

How to Find a Lost Hamster in 10 Easy Steps

1. Hunt at Night

Hamsters are mainly nocturnal so you have a greater chance of finding them at night. Turn off all the lights and sit quietly in the dark listening for any sounds of little claws on the floor. Hamsters make a scurrying sound but you may also hear the sound of them chewing card or paper left around the house. Do one room at a time – you may have to recruit all the family to help with the lost hamster in house adventure!

A cat or dog can provide clues about this but only under very carefully controlled circumstances. Your kitty or pooch must be on a lead at all times. Our dog became obsessed with some boxed in pipework which gave us a big clue about where our hammy was hiding. When they are not helping with the search, other pets (especially cats) that could hurt the hamster need to be locked away.

2. Use Foil to Hear their Feet

Carpets and linoleum will muffle the sound of hamster feet so put down some aluminum foil. Don’t bother putting it out in the center of the room where your hamster is unlikely to venture. Instead, place it under furniture or behind cupboards and listen for any noise as it is walked over.

You may have to do this on several occasions and in several rooms so you may want to have a sleeping bag with you so that you can have a nap.

3. Use Cornstarch to Track them

If you have no luck listening out for your hamster, you could try tracking them instead. You could track your hamster’s movements by placing a thin layer of cornstarch (fine flour) on the floor. If you find little tracks in one room, this will at least give you an idea about where your hamster is hiding. If you can narrow it down to one room it will make your search more efficient and hopefully more successful.

4. Leave Food and Water

Depending on when your hamster escaped, they could be very hungry and thirsty by now. Hamsters can only survive for a day or so without water and a little longer without food. You need to keep them alive whilst you try and locate their hiding spot and trap them. So, leave plenty of feed and water in a small bowl positioned all over the house.

If your hamster takes the food it is good news! It means that hammy is alive and all you have to do is find them and get them back in their cage.

5. Start a Methodical Search

Hopefully, by now you will have located roughly where your hamster is hiding so that you can narrow the search. Don’t forget you are not just looking for your hamster itself, you are also looking for clues about where your hamster is hiding. This could be shredded cardboard or paper, nibbled food, or even a nibbled electrical wire. Be thorough and methodical and use a flashlight. Proceed very gently so you don’t hurt a sleeping hamster or get a sharp bite yourself.

If you have no idea where their hiding place is, start with the room where you kept your hamster’s cage when they escaped. Here are some ideas on where to look:

• Behind and underneath furniture including under couch cushions
• Inside cabinets and drawers and behind books stacked on shelves
• Inside bags, coat pockets, boots and shoes, and shoeboxes

6. Widen Your Search Area

If your initial hamster search has been unsuccessful, it is time to get serious. Hamsters can get to places in your house that you may not even know exist! A Syrian hamster can get through a hole that is one inch wide and a dwarf hamster needs half that. So, start looking in small spaces – they can squeeze behind pipes and appliances.

Try checking in with your neighbors. Many hamsters make it up into the loft and from there can even get into neighbors’ houses or a neighboring apartment. We also started lifting up floorboards when we thought we heard movement in one room.

Think about what has been taken out of the house. Could your hamster have been taken out with the garbage or with any other bags that have left your house? We had to call our local thrift store and ask them to keep an eye out for our hamster because we had taken bags of clothes there.

7. Tempt them with special treats

One of the top tips on how to find an escaped hamster is to lure them out with treats. A missing hamster will still like their tasty treats. Choose some treats that your hamster likes and will come out of hiding to eat. Some hamsters love peanut butter, others prefer sunflower seeds or chopped-up apple or cucumber.

You could even try tying a long string to the favorite treats to see if it leads you back to where your hamster lives at the moment.

8. Leave the Cage Door Open

Believe it or not, often an escaped hamster will make their own way back into their cage. Once they have discovered that the big outside world is not as exciting as they thought it would be, they are happy to go home and climb in that nice soft bedding that you provide for them.

It is very important that you leave the hamster cage in the room where you think your hamster is and leave the door open at all times. Check every morning to see if they have returned. You may get a lovely surprise and a happy ending to your hamster escaping a cage emergency!

9. Place a Humane Trap

A lot of advice on how to catch a hamster involves placing a humane trap.

You can use a humane mouse trap to catch your runaway hamster. You can get them from your local pet store or hardware store. They are basically a wire cage in which you place treats and food. Your hamster will climb inside and the door shuts behind them so that they cannot get back out.

Place it in the room where your hamster went missing or where you suspect they are.

10. Set a Bucket Trap

You can make your own humane hamster trap using a bucket and a towel. Lay a towel in a deep bucket and put some tasty treats on top. Make a ramp with books or wood so that your hamster can get up to the top. When they reach the top, they should jump down to get the treats but will not be able to get back up.

Make sure that the towel is thick enough to create a soft landing and check to see if your hamster is there first thing in the morning. They may not be very pleased with the way their night turned out!

Final Thoughts on How to Find a Lost Hamster

When my hamster escaped it was a very stressful time. The important thing is to act quickly to try to find your little pet. There are reports online of hamsters going missing for several weeks and then turning up a bit thin but otherwise fine. So, don’t despair and don’t give up. Following the above 10 steps will give you the best chance of being reunited with your pet.

Hopefully, your missing hamster crisis will have a happy ending. Once you find them, if you have any concerns about their health you should seek veterinary advice. Good luck!

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The 10 Top Rated Guinea Pig Foods

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Hay is an essential part of any rabbit’s diet and the wrong hay can cause gastrointestinal problems as well as unnecessary weight gain – so as I’m sure you can tell, it’s important to get it right. We have here a quick list of the best hay for rabbits, including a helpful guide on what to look out for when purchasing hay for your bunny to help you make an informed decision.

The 9 Top Rated Hay For Rabbits

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The Best Hamster Food

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This can be stressful for their new owners who have no idea about how to care for a pregnant rabbit or how to tell if their rabbit is pregnant! If this has just happened to you, don’t panic because we have you covered! We have first hand experience of breeding rabbits and have researched the latest expert advice so that you can get all the information you need right here.

Baby rabbits are called kits and are the cutest things you can imagine but the process of bringing them into the world can be a little stressful. Read on to find out everything that you need to know about rabbit pregnancy.

When Can a Rabbit Become Pregnant?

A female rabbit can become pregnant as soon as she reaches sexual maturity. For average sized breed rabbits, this is at around four to six months of age. However, for giant breeds it will be more like six to nine months and for the smallest breeds it can be as young as three and a half months.

Once your rabbits are sexually mature, you cannot keep males and females in the same rabbit cage without there being a very high probability of a pregnancy! The other important thing to remember is that a female rabbit can become pregnant again as soon as she gives birth. The usual advice is to separate males and females once they reach 12 weeks old.

Female rabbits are receptive to mating for 14 out of every 16 days. So, if you are trying to breed rabbits and do not have success the first time you introduce her to the male rabbit, try again a few days later. Also, always bring the female to the male’s cage as females are very territorial and are more likely to attack him if he is introduced into her cage.

When rabbits mate successfully, the male rabbit flips over afterward in a very distinctive way and our own rabbit thumps his feet a few times too! There can be at least 10 minutes of chasing each other around before this happens.

How Long are Bunnies Pregnant For?

The rabbit gestation period (the time between mating and giving birth) is around 31 to 33 days. In general, a doe that is expecting a small litter (which is four or less baby rabbits) will be pregnant for longer than a doe that is expecting a large litter.

Pregnant rabbits should have given birth by day 33. If they have not, a rabbit savvy vet may be able to induce labor for you. After day 34, it is usual for all the kits to be stillborn. Sometimes, a pregnant doe will not actually abort the kits and her body will absorb them instead. This can be due to nutritional deficiencies.

False Pregnancy

Rabbits can suffer from a phenomenon called false pregnancy. The scientific word for this is pseudopregnancy. Female rabbits produce eggs (ovulate) in response to mating and this is why they are so good at getting pregnant! However, they sometimes ovulate after being mounted by another female so you are more likely to encounter it if you keep two females together in the same cage. However it can also occur if you just have one doe. It is also more likely to happen if a male is somewhere close by.

If your pet rabbit is having a false pregnancy, you may notice that she is nest building by pulling out her fur. False pregnancies usually only last between 15 and 18 days and during this time the doe may be very territorial and dig excessively. It can lead to some problems with the uterus and even mastitis in some animals. False pregnancies (sometimes called phantom pregnancies) are very rare in wild rabbits.

What are the Signs of a Pregnant Rabbit?

Whether your breeding was planned or accidental, you need to know how to tell if rabbit is pregnant so that you can make the appropriate preparations.

Early on in the rabbit pregnancy, you will not be able to tell if she’s pregnant but later on there will be some changes in the doe that will indicate that she is a pregnant rabbit! Here are some of the main signs that your rabbit is pregnant.

• Personality changes: Do you have a doe that is usually very chilled and easy-going but has become a bit cranky? Pregnant rabbits can be aggressive and can refuse to be petted as they did before. This can start just a few days after the doe gets pregnant.
• Digging: A mother rabbit may start to dig furiously when she is a couple of weeks pregnant. This is a type of nesting behavior. In the wild, most rabbits would dig a burrow in which to build their nest for their babies.
• Abdominal changes: If you are experienced in handling rabbits, you could gently feel the abdomen of the mother rabbit to detect a rabbit pregnancy. In a pregnant rabbit, you will be able to feel small lumps around the size of a grape. You can only feel these once the doe is at least 10 days pregnant. The doe’s weight may increase but it is very hard to tell this. Towards the end of her pregnancy, you may be able to see the babies kicking.
• Nest building/nesting behavior: Towards the end of the pregnancy, the female starts to make a nest for the babies from her own fur. She often starts by making a round nest in the straw in the nest box. She may not pull out her fur until the very last day.

How to Take Care of a Pregnant Rabbit

A rabbit pregnancy will progress without you having to do very much at all! If there are any male rabbits in the cage, remove them. A boy rabbit could cause the pregnant rabbit stress and get her pregnant immediately with a second litter right after the first.

She will need a nesting box that is large enough for her to get into but very large nest boxes are off-putting so don’t get carried away. She also needs some materials to make a nest for the baby rabbits so supply plenty of bedding hay or straw.

During her pregnancy she will need more food than usual as her body is also feeding the babies. As well as her usual nuggets, green vegetables and hay, mix in some alfalfa hay. Alfalfa hay is higher in calcium and protein than regular rabbit hay which is good for the mother rabbit and the growing babies.

At this time, your rabbit needs as little stress as possible. So, keep the environment calm and handle her as little as possible.

How Do I Help a Rabbit in Labor?

When a pregnant rabbit gives birth it is called kindling. You are unlikely to see any pregnant rabbit labor signs because she gives birth in the early hours of the morning. They do it by instinct and do not need your help.

The feeding takes place twice a day and the rest of the time she will sit away from the nest. If this is her first litter, sadly she can become confused and abandon them. You could try syringe feeding the kits but this is not often successful.

Do Rabbits Give Birth to all Babies at Once?

Rabbit litters contain between one and fourteen kits. Usually, they are all born at the same time and it takes about 15 minutes. However, there are some reports of rabbits giving birth to a litter over a couple of days.

Rabbits have a lot of kits because sadly all the babies are unlikely to survive.

Straight After Your Female Bunny Giving Birth

Baby bunnies are usually born in the night. It’s not actually that easy to tell when your rabbit has given birth! She will have created a nest from fur and it is hard to see if there are any babies in it without disturbing them. The female rabbit covers the baby bunnies with fur and hides them.

Often, the first thing you notice is that the fur appears to be twitching a little. That is the babies throwing themselves around! The mother rabbits stays away from the nest as much as possible and feeding only takes place around twice a day. Rabbits are a prey animal which means that they have adapted to hide from predators. They do not want to a lead a predator to the nest and so they stay away from it as much as they can once they give birth.

Caring for Baby Bunnies

Newborn rabbits are completely helpless – blind and with no fur. They look a bit like tiny hippos. They need their mother’s milk to help them grow until they are fully weaned at around six weeks old.

Like many small mammals, they have large litters and not all the kits will make it. Sadly, there are occasions when the mother rabbit died too. Often, the best thing that you can do is to let the mother rabbit get on with it. However, you do need to be careful with her diet and environment. You also need to know what to do if you need to step in and help. But don’t worry! We have a comprehensive article on How to take care of a baby bunny that will help you out.

Conclusion

Starting off with one rabbit and then finding out that you have several can be stressful as well as exciting. On the other hand, if you have two rabbits and are planning on a pregnancy and baby rabbits – things do not always go according to plan.

On the whole, rabbits are animals that cope with pregnancy and birth by themselves. Just make sure that the doe has everything that she needs and is kept in a calm environment. That includes removing the intact male if he is still around. You only have a month or so to wait to see the baby bunnies!

Again, in the early days following the birth it is best to leave them alone or it could upset the doe. In a fortnight or so they will be climbing out of the nest and coming out to say hello to their new family!

Sources:

1. Pseudopregnancy, Science Direct
2. Breeding and Reproduction of Rabbits, MSD Veterinary ManualRabbit

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Species Overview

Short History of the Syrian Hamsters

You may be surprised to know that there are at least 18 species of wild hamster and that the Syrian hamster is actually one of the rarest! For years it was considered to be a rodent with a natural habitat near the city of Aleppo in Syria. The earliest cataloged records date back to 1797 but it would have lived for many thousands of years before this.

Its history as a pet hamster starts off in 1930 when a biologist called Israel Aharoni set up an expedition to track the hamsters. His interest had been triggered by reports of an animal that was called a golden hamster and had been given an Arabic name that meant “Mr. Saddlebags” after its impressive cheek pouches! The aim was to find a hamster that would breed in captivity and therefore be suitable for medical research. With the help of a local hunter, Aharoni was successful and captured one litter. It is thought that all Syrian hamsters kept as a pet today descended from that one litter which may explain why inherited heart problems can be an issue.

Syrian Hamster Appearance

How Big do Syrian Hamsters Get?

As adults, Syrian hamsters are about the size of your hand. They are larger than the Roborovski dwarf hamsters and this makes them easier to handle and a little more robust. An adult Syrian hamster will weigh between five and seven inches long and weigh around four or five ounces.

What do Syrian Hamsters Look Like?

Syrian hamsters have a body that is rounded and stocky and they have stumpy tails that are not easy to see! Their facial characteristics are large eyes and tulip-shaped ears are which are small, neat, and covered in fur. These hamsters have stocky little legs and wide feet.

In terms of hair length, there is a short-haired type and a long-haired Syrian hamster (some people call these Teddy Bear hamsters or Angora hamsters). The original Syrian hamster was a golden color and this is why they are also sometimes called the Golden hamster. These days, they are a range of colors including black, white, golden, and brown and some are a combination of colors.

Fun Facts

Here are five fun facts that you may not know about Syrian hamsters!

1. Hamsters have teeth that grow continuously so they need lots of things to gnaw on.
2. Your hamster likes a lot of exercise and most of that takes place at night.
3. Hamsters like to burrow and sleep in enclosed spaces.
4. Your hamster needs to be kept alone from the age of 6 weeks.
5. Hamsters have pouches that reach from their jaw to their shoulders!

Golden Hamster Temperament

Syrian hamsters are very popular in the pet trade and widely available in pet stores as well as from private breeders. This is mainly due to their easy-going nature and cute appearance. Here are the main things that you need to know about their behavior and temperament

Syrian Hamsters as Pets

These hamsters make great pets for families with children. They tolerate humans handling them very well and as long as you take care to hold them gently and carefully they do not seem to mind the experience. You cannot expect them to form a strong bond with one person or with lots of family members in the same way as a cat or dog would. However, they will stretch up the bars of the cage to say hello to you and take some tasty treats from your hand.

The key to Syrian hamster care and to getting them accustomed to handling is to hold them often, especially when they are young. There are plenty of information articles giving guidance and tips on how to hold a hamster. One of the most popular approaches is to rub your hands in the bedding so that you smell like they do and leave your hands close to the hamster at first without attempting to pick them up. After doing this a couple of times, you can move on to scooping them up rather than grabbing them from above. This can spook some hamsters.

These hamsters have sharp teeth and can give a nasty bite but with regular and appropriate handling this is not very likely to happen. Never try to pick up a sleeping hamster, they will assume that you are attacking them and that is likely to result in a nasty nip.

Living Arrangements

Syrian hamsters like to have a living environment to themselves. They are solitary animals and do not like to live in groups or pairs (apart from when mating). If you try to get these hamsters to live in pairs or groups they will fight with each other and even kill each other. Most people only care for one Syrian hamster but if you want another you will need two cages. Obviously, the female will need to be with her young until they are weaned. They are not too keen on other pets either so the best approach is to keep your pet secured in their cage and only handle them when there are no other pets around.

They prefer to sleep all day and become very active at night which can cause a problem if you have chosen to store the cage in a bedroom. Despite the fact that your pet is very small, they can make a lot of noise that will keep you awake. They like to run around the cage, climb up the bars of the enclosure and have a go on their exercise wheel which produces a series of bangs and squeaks! You may find that the best option is to keep the cage in a room where no one is sleeping.

Sometimes hamsters will adapt their sleeping schedule to suit their human family and will be awake in the morning or evening so that you can interact with them.

Health & Care

You can expect your Syrian hamster care duties to take up a few hours a week. You will need to feed them, provide fresh water and check that they are okay every day. Their cage will need to be cleaned out every few days to remove the bedding that has been soiled with urine or feces.

Handling

One of the main times that you will need to handle your hamster is when you are cleaning out their cage. You need to lift them gently out and place them in a secure box or small carrier that you can get from pet shops. Remove all of the articles such as toys and food bowls so that you can get at the interior surface of the enclosure. It is important to remove all of the stale food. However, you can retain a small part of the bedding and put it back in with the fresh bedding so that your hamster feels that it smells familiar.

You must use only water to clean them out as cleaning products contain chemicals that can be harmful to hamsters. Alternatively, you can ask at your local pet store about a cleaner specially designed for hamster cages. Use a damp cloth to wipe down every article from the cage and check it for damage. Then, put in some fresh bedding and pop your hamster back in.

Feeding

The hamster diet is not complicated. There is no fixed feeding time, you just need to refresh the food once a day and they will graze on it. The best option for these pets is to use a special hamster mix that contains nuts, grains, and seeds. There are many types of hamster food available and most of them provide all the nutrients that hamsters need in their diets. For more information on hamster food, check out our review article.

However, watch out for selective feeding. If you use a food that has different colored or shaped morsels in it, your hamster may avoid one kind and favor another. This can lead to them not getting a balanced diet. As well as their basic diet, you should add in some food treats to provide enrichment and variety. There is plenty of fruit and vegetables that hamsters love but some fruit and vegetables are not suitable and can even be toxic so always check. It’s best to feed these special snacks in the evening and not offer them every day as too much can result in a stomach upset. Remove uneaten fresh food after 24 hours. Here is a list of some food snacks that are suitable for the hamster diet:

• apples
• broccoli
• carrots
• cauliflower
• pears
• cucumber

Very occasionally you can offer small pieces of cheese or boiled egg as hamsters are omnivores.

Hamsters have a clever way of storing food to eat later. They can store food in their pouches that are located by their cheeks. You will often find piles of stashed food in the cage and these need to be cleaned out every day.

Housing

When it comes to the living environment hamsters need an enclosure or cage-like those reviewed here with as much floor space as possible. You need a lot of floor space for the food bowl, hamster toys, hamster bedding, and plenty of space to run around. The pet shop where you get your hamster will be able to give you plenty of information on the cage size and accessories. Ideally, there will be multiple levels and a hiding place in the enclosure where your hamster can hide away and get some peace.

The cage needs to be made out of strong materials and needs to have metal wires because hamsters are very determined chewers! At the bottom of the cage, you need to provide a substrate that will soak up urine and a soft material that they can create a nest in. You could use wood shavings as the substrate and you could use paper as the bedding but there are plenty more suggestions here. Try to get an enclosure that is deep enough for them to burrow in.

These little pets need something to pass the time so provide some hamster toys that they can climb on or chew (or both) and don’t forget that hamster wheels are firm favorites. There is plenty more inspiration in our hamster toy review.

Water bottles are the best option for providing hydration as they cannot get knocked over and make the bedding wet!

Toilet

Hamsters produce very small and dry poops and a small amount of pee. They will often pick one part of their cage to use as a toilet but you do not have to provide a special litter tray.

If your hamster’s poops become very soft it can be an indication that something is wrong. It may mean that you are feeding too much fresh fruit.

Common Health Problems

A common question is how long do hamsters live -and the answer to this is that it varies with many factors. The following are likely to help your hamster live longer but all hamsters are different and this will always be the case.

• Quality of care: The care that you take to look after your hamster can have an impact on their life expectancy so the actions that you take are important. Buying a suitable wheel can increase exercise and cut down on injuries and providing the correct food can help with overall health.
• Genetics: Some hamsters are bred with close relatives and this cuts down on genetic diversity and makes genetic defects more likely. They can affect any part of the body but heart defects are common in hamsters.
• Illness: Some hamsters are just unlucky and pick up infections and illnesses that shorten their life expectancy.
• Environment: Hamsters are sensitive to their environment in terms of space, temperature, noxious fumes, noise, and so on.

On the whole, hamsters are quite hardy pets but there are some common health issues that you should look out for.

Wet Tail

This is caused by a stomach upset and is often triggered by stress but feeding too much fresh food can also cause problems. You will notice wetness around the tail area as well as lethargy, a lack of appetite, and soft and runny poops. Don’t waste any time, get your hamster to a vet right away.

Skin Problems

Hamsters can suffer from skin mites. These are tiny parasites that cause itching and hair loss. They can be treated so book an appointment with your vet.

Tumors

Sadly, tumors are quite common in hamsters and they can occur anywhere on the body including the adrenal glands and scent glands. Always report any changes to your vet for investigation.

Price

You have the option of getting a Syrian hamster from a pet store, shop, breeder, or rescue center. However, always do your research. In general, a good breeder or a rescue group will have provided higher standards of care. Choose a hamster from someone who is prepared to give you ongoing advice and information and take time talking to you. Look at all the hamsters to make sure that they appear healthy and well cared for. In general, you can expect to pay around $20.

FAQs:

Q: Are Syrian hamsters good pets?

A: If you are prepared to dedicate some time to handling and looking after them, Syrian hamsters make great pets. They are more robust than dwarf hamsters, they move quite slowly and don’t mind being handled. You can have them in most rented accommodation as they are kept in a cage. These hamsters require relatively little equipment and are entertaining and engaging little characters to have in your home.

Q: Are Syrian hamsters cuddly?

A: Syrian hamsters are furry animals but there are many more pets that prefer to be cuddled. You can handle your hamster but they will prefer to run around and will not like to be squeezed. You need to be careful that very young children do not hold them too tightly.

Q: Do Syrian hamsters bite?

A: All animals with teeth have the potential to bite but it does not have to be the case that they bite often. Provided you get your hamster accustomed to handling and only try to hold them when they are wide awake (never when they are asleep), they are unlikely to nip you.

Q: Can a Syrian hamster live alone?

A: Yes! They must be housed alone because they are very territorial and hate the company. They will fight to the death in some cases. If you want to keep a pair of hamsters, you would be better off getting some Roborovski dwarf hamsters.

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